Another worthy Tuscan white wine is Vernaccia, from the grape of the same name, which grows in the vicinity of medieval San Gimignano and nowhere else.

This is a wine of true Tuscan character, full of flavour, having a certain oiliness to the texture which is cut by good acidity and a touch of almondy bitterness on the back palate.

It used to be very oily, golden in colour and oxidized from over-heating in the vinification. Then, long cool fermentation became the fashion and Vernaccia became superclean.

Now, there is a partial return to the old viscosity and nuttiness which is most welcome, and which may be achieved by a brief passage in small oak barrels.

Perhaps one of the best practitiones of this art is Cantine Baroncini at San Gimignano (250 metres ASL). Its VSG is aged in barriques, which gives it the tone and complexity that appeals to international tastes - It has a pale golden yellow colour, fresh bouquet, semi-dry flavour and bitter almondy finish.

Serving suggestions: a wine for drinking throughout the meal. It goes very well with all fish-based dishes, delicately flavoured soups, vegetables and fresh cheese.

Ideal serving temperature: 10-12C

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